Cyano problems

Cinnimin

Non-member
Hi, I have been dealing with a cyano issue for a while now. At first my lfs said that is was because of flow since I only had my rotating return pump and that was enough for 6 mo before the bloom started. I added the nano aquatop pump which if it is not pointed to the top, blows sand piles within the day before i restart it. While the cyano doesn’t stick to the pile of sand being blown around it will stick even half an inch over from the pile. the cyano is also getting really stringy now instead of laying flat over the sand but it’s still the same color and texture.

I am using AI prime hd for lights with utraviolet and violet at about 120-135 fluctuating and everything else is at 30 or lower.

I do seem to now have another algae growing thats short and hairy but my mexican turbo will eat that, and then maybe another that is attaching to my glass. I also have coraline but i think the cyano is winning over it since its mostly growing on glass or shells.

My lyon clove from the symposium has at least 4 new heads popped out with more spreading every time I look at it.

i have 2 clowns 4-5 different hermits, a Mexican turbo snail and a tiger conch that happily stays in my sand unless I accidentally dig him up.

My main reason for this post is that instead of getting better, the cyano seems to be coming back quicker and in ways that are harder to manage. The strings are harder to suck up, and it being mostly on the sand bed takes forever to get it up anyways. I had just cleaned my tank this morning and got up what I could and you can see how it looks just like 5 hours later.
My parameters:
Sal: 1.25
Calc: 70 (I am raising this as quickly as I can safely) (or my test is bad, but this is a theory I need to test for a few more days)
Alk:10.2
Phos: 0, but my ro water has 0.12 (is this a problem?)
Mag: 1450 (this was a surprise to me this morning as every other test has been at 1350, i will be replacing my filters because of this since it seems to come from my ro)
42B5B1C9-27F3-44C3-81BD-28078A38EAE2.jpeg


after about probably 3 days this is going to become thick long strings that cover everything else, is this even cyano anymore?

I just replaced my chemipure which was supposed to last for much longer than what I had it in for just incase

Any help or advice is wanted, thank you


(I wanted to add that I have recently gone through some financial changes and couldn’t afford to focus on more than water changes until a few weeks ago so I would’ve done more sooner but money didn’t allow it, I am now back to financially frugal but capable)
 

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I don't know if we'll hear from the OP again, but in the last week I added a tiger conch. This dude CRUSHES cyano. Whether eating it or just disturbing it, it's clearing up quickly. Had never heard this before. I usually live with a little cyano in dead zones because there's only so much you can mess with in a 30 gallon.
 
How large is the tank / little more about the setup. How much LR, etc?
Its 29 g biocube, I am not sure what LR stands for? The tank has been running since march, and for filtration I have mutliple sizes of sponges, chemipure and some extra carbon with seachem prime but not a lot of that. I also have bioballs filling up the rest of my sump.
 
I don't know if we'll hear from the OP again, but in the last week I added a tiger conch. This dude CRUSHES cyano. Whether eating it or just disturbing it, it's clearing up quickly. Had never heard this before. I usually live with a little cyano in dead zones because there's only so much you can mess with in a 30 gallon.
I have a tiger conch and he honestly avoids it, i could his paths and he would always take the quickest path out from the rocks or glass.
 
Even though I have been a reefer for a short time I have kept saltwater for a long time and conquered cyano a number of times. Flow will definitely help. Also, the organics being removed from the water with carbon may be creating a void the cyano is filling. I'm not sure this has ever been proven, but enough saying they see an uptick of cyano when they run carbon, there might be some relation there. You also have to think about nutriants ..phosphate nitrate. You say above phosphate is 0, what test are you using the determine that? Also what is your nitrate?

I have never found additives like vibrant to do anything but delay the issue. I have found that adding a bacterial supplement like microbacter 7 seems to help. I add 1 ml a day to my 30 gallon. In the past when it has gotten really bad, getting a decent UV sterilizer when used properly can really help. About 20 (20!) years ago when my dad and I were stumbling around this hobby and I was 13 and really into saltwater, we had cyano problems and a lot of fish getting sick, and we spent I think $200-$250 on a good UV sterilizer, and it was like overnight most of our issues stopped. I remember a ton of people on boards at that time (AOL), reef central, were claiming UV did nothing, but it was hard not to see the correlation so we kept using it and the cyano never returned. Nowadays I am sure the technology is much better. I have a little bit of cyano in my tank I have been living with, but I have been toying with the idea of adding a good UV again to see if I can get that clean look. Sellers like Bulk Reef Supply have some great videos now on how to choose one and how to tune it (the amount of flow you put through it can greatly impact its effectiveness).

I would also caution that sometimes the goal shouldn't be to completely eradicate the problem, because you might open the door to a worse issue. If you totally remove all nutrients and eliminate cyano, your corals may suffer, and also you may get something nastier like dino.

You also said RO water - are you using a 3 or 4 stage RODI unit? What is your water source?
 
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