Got my Neptune AquaController Jr. today

[Bobbofin]

Programmed it. After a few programming questions for Curt I think it's pretty good. Been playing with it for about four hours, I'm impressed. A lot better than the Reef Keeper Lite IMO. Once you understand the programming langauge the skys the limit.

Here's my programming:
LTB-A01 = Blue LEDs
LTW-A02 = White LEDs
PHL-A03 = Left Powerhead
PHR-A04 = Right Powerhead
HTR-A05 = Heater
SFN-A06 = Sump Fan
LFN-A08 = Four LED Fixture Fans
DAY-D01 = Day timer (virtual timer to shut off wavemaker at night)

LIGHTING
If Time > 12:00 Then LTB ON
If Time > 23:00 Then LTB OFF
If Time > 13:30 Then LTW ON
If Time > 21:30 Then LTW OFF

WAVEMAKER
OSC 001/001 ON/OFF Then PHL ON
If Timer DAY = OFF Then PHL OFF
If Timer PHL = ON Then PHR OFF
If Timer PHL = OFF Then PHR ON
If Timer Day = OFF Then PHR OFF

VIRTUAL TIMER
If Time > 00:00 Then DAY OFF
If Time > 08:00 Then DAY ON

HEATER
If Temp < 77.0 Then HTR ON
If Temp >77.5 Then HTR OFF

SUMP COOLING FAN
If Temp > 80.0 Then SFN ON
If Temp < 79.0 Then SFN OFF

FOUR FANS IN LED FIXTURE
If Time > 12:00 Then LFN ON
If Time > 23:00 Then LFN OFF

FEED CYCLE
If Feed Cycle Then PHL OFF
If Feed Cycle Then PHR OFF

 

[gonorth16]

Just got my APex and can't wait to hook it up!!! Neptune systems rock!!!

 

[mnavick]

Have an AquaController III and love it. Web interface rocks.

 

[Bobbofin]

Could not afford almost $500 for a Apex controller but I could afford $250 for a AC Jr with a PH probe. Jeremy at Premium Aquatics gave me a deal. Web interface not a big deal to me. Having my heater on it is a BIG deal. Got the wavemaker going too, one minute to each pump. Had a really bad experience with Reef Keeper Lite with the head unit not seeing the modules and upgrading them.

 

[gonorth16]

I got the apex lite and Jeremy gave me a great deal as well. I had to have the Web interface .

 

[newenglandreef]

Congrats!

I'm not sure how much the LED's heat up the water, but you could add some lines like If Temp > 80.0 Then LTB OFF. (Then a max change after that). Looks like you start cooling your sump first. Ken Argo up at Keef Central has a "best practices" for programming that's incredibly helpful (http://reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=368), as well as a website devoted to controllers... www.kenargo.com. I think one of his things is that, when a parameter starts deviating from the expected norm, you try to control the parameter through the use of equipment. If that doesn't work then something must be wrong, so he discontinues the problem-solving function and returns everything to normal so not to cause additional problems (like adding CO2 when PH is high).

I also add my return pump to the DC8 so I can shut down everything during the feed cycle. Also, if you end up adding a float valve, you can program the return to stop if your float valve is triggered.

Really an awesome toy...

 

[Bobbofin]

LEDs give off zero heat down to the water but I have a plexi shield on it too. All heat is evacuated out the top towards the ceiling.

 

[dcforester1]

I love my Apex and would never have a tank without a controller again, it takes alot of aggravation out of it for me. I dont know about the Jr, but with the Apex you just put if time is 12 then on, you dont have to put < or >.

it is great that you can add conditions. I know the LEDs run cool but I have m lights turn down if the temp is high, and alarms if the floors flood.

GoodLuck with it, and Curt a is great help

 

[JPags]

I had a jr. and then upgraded to a AC3 (got a used one cheap). I am planning on getting the Apex at some point but the 3 is fine for now.

One thing you may want to do is handle some alternate conditions.

If Time < 12:00 Then LTB OFF

If the Jr restarts before 12:00 it will not know the state of the lights. It will leave the switch in the last state but I like to make sure the state is always known. The other issue is if you have a power failure and the power comes back on after a period of time the switch may not be in the incorrect position and will be left on.

If Temp < 65.0 Then HTR OFF (if your temp sensor goes bad)

I have a backup temp setting on my heater just incase, I have seen my AC temp monitor read 100 when it went bad and my chiller would have been working overtime freezing my fish if I did not do this. If you have temp settings on your heater then you may not need to do this because it will shutoff itself.

Just some tips I have learned.

John

 

[newenglandreef]

LEDs give off zero heat down to the water but I have a plexi shield on it too. All heat is evacuated out the top towards the ceiling.

that's awesome! Though I used my halides to quickly heat up the tank this morning--my heat sensor was faulty.