In wall tank

[dannyp02908]

Hi,

I am building an Oceanic 110RR into a wall. I have a question regarding trim.

The trim on the tank makes it impossible to put a casing flush to the tank. Is it ok to take the front trim off the top and bottom of the tank? If not, any reccomendations on how to get the casing right to the glass?

 

[dannyp02908]

anyone? this is the only snag.

 

[JD46]

I personally would not remove the casing as, depending on the type of tank, it is a structural member. For Oceanics glass non-Eurobraced, it is likely required to keep the glass from bowing. I chose to take the wall a bit higher than the top and bottom casings. That way you can butt the trimwork right up against the glass. You will lose a few inches of viewing space, but minimal in the grand scheme of things. Plus, if you plan on having sand on the bottom of the tank, you will only be covering the ugliness of the sand bed edges.

JD

 

[dannyp02908]

re

thank you for the reply. I am not familiar with the term euro brace. If you are referring to the thick piece of glass in the top center of the tank, that is there. I just want my casing to be level with the wall and the glass.i dont want any gaps.

 

[JD46]

Euro-braced tanks are built differently than the stand tank and do not have the plastic trim common on All-Glass, Oceanic, Perfecto, etc tanks.

http://coasttocoastaquariums.com/images/services/euro_braced/photos/36x36x24_Euro.jpg

If you have the plastic trim, do not remove it or you will risk bowing of the glass panels and will eventually end up with 110gal of water on the floor. I think that your other option is to extend the wall beyond the tank trim allowing you to butt the molding directly up to the glass.

Also, be sure that you provide some sort of access to the tank from the front; usually doors above the tank. If you do not, aquascaping and cleaning the glass will be a nightmare.

JD

 

[dannyp02908]

I have access from the back of the tank. The trim on the tank is not a 1 piece trim. This is an older Oceanic tank. The trim is actually 4 pieces glued at the corners. There is a huge glass center brace. Is there still an issue of blowing out?

 

[JD46]

My advise would be to leave it there. 110gals of water is a lot to clean up.

As for access from the back of the tank, I have that as well. 6 months after I was up and running, I was cutting holes in the wall to provide additional access.

Best of luck.

JD

 

[dannyp02908]

Thank you for all of your input. Honestly, those trim pieces alone make me wish I hadnt started this project. All in all, i can get the casing on the wall and use a moulding to touch the glass but the glass will be sitting into the wall whereas I wanted it flush.

 

[67belvedere]

why not go just inside the trim of the tank and put a filler to flush out to the wood trim

 

[cujo6984]

just cut a groove in the back of the trim [[[[[[______]]]]]] like so

 

[nicks387]

You can do what I did with my marineland 300 that had black trim and is in wall. I put the sheet rock right up over the trim and filled it in with plaster before painting it. It came out great. It just has like an inch recess into the wall that you can see if you look at the left side of the tank.

 

[dannyp02908]

re

yea i was trying to avoid the recess but have accepted it will be there.