Installing a drain on skimmer cup?

[Armando]

I would like to install a drain on my euroreef skimmer.

Anyone in the club with the appropriate equipment and time to drill it? I definitely dont want to try myself and crack the thing.

I can offer only $, I'm out of frags right now and then.

 

[aweeks95]

i think to drill plastic or acrylic you need a negative angle drill bit to insure that you don't crack it. i've drilled plenty of holes in acrylic, withregular...new and sharp...bits, for my own projects with only minor chipping on the back side of the hole...no cracks what so ever. i'm not sure if that helps you at all...i could only imagine that the hole would be small and shouldn't be a problem to drill. i'm all the way on the other side of the state or i'd offer to help you out. let us know how things work out for you.
ANDY

 

[smcnally]

Drilling acrylic is easy Armando. Just use a new sharp bit, run the drill at a medium speed, and use very light pressure.

 

[Armando]

i drilled my sumps but because this is a curved surface and it is $$ i'm a little afraid of doing it.

what kind of bit should i look for? should I look for something specific for acrylic/plastic or the wood ones are OK?

 

[aweeks95]

if it's good for wood and metal than it will be ok for plastic, just do like smcally said, light pessure. especially when you are almost through the plastic.

 

[Liam]

if you use a wood bit with a centering spike it won't slip on the curved surface.

 

[NateHanson]

Personally I think drilling acrylic with a normal twist bit (designed for metal, but commonly used for wood) is risky. They grab horribly when they get through, and it's too easy to crack a thin piece that isn't securely clamped.

I'd get yourself a brad-point bit, like Liam is referring to, and if you want to be extra safe go through until the center point comes out the back side, and then drill the rest of the way with the drill running backwards. Or just finish forwards but very slowly and with light pressure. Keep the bit cool with a spray bottle.

If the side of your skimmer cup is less than a 1/4", I'd drill the flat bottom of the cup, rather than the round side. It's easier to tap, and easier to drill. Less likely to crack. You may have to do the drilling from the top.

 

[dedfish]

My advise is to start really small and work up to the size you want.

 

[Armando]

another question is - what kind of bulkhead would fit in a curved surface like this?

BTW it's not possible to drill the bottom. Space is needed to remove cup.

 

[Liam]

another question is - what kind of bulkhead would fit in a curved surface like this?

BTW it's not possible to drill the bottom. Space is needed to remove cup.

you don't need a bulkhead,just get a threaded nipple at HD

 

[Armando]

is 1/2" a good size?

 

[nunofs]

If you get one of the John Guest fittings, namely a threaded elbow, do you think you'd be able to attach it to the bottom? The idea would be for the threaded end of the elbow to screw in to the bottom of the cup and for the barb end to point outwards and take some vinyl tubing... this would take very little space on the bottom of the cup.

Nuno

 

[Liam]

is 1/2" a good size?

sounds about right,you just want to make sure it does'nt get clogged to quickly with build up from that Frappe you collect,or was it milkshake.

 

[PenMan]

I thouht that I wanted the drain on my Euro-reef when I got it and looked around RC for tips on doing it. The suggestions of RC were that it was not a good idea. The cup does not overfow even on that standalone version. The extra foam drains back into the skimmer. I have found that by the time the cup fills up, the walls are so coated with slim that it is no longer skimming at proper rate.

 

[Armando]

PenMan what happens is that I am going to start doing wet skimming. I'll start a thread with this topic, i'm curious to see how it is going to work out.

sounds about right,you just want to make sure it does'nt get clogged to quickly with build up from that Frappe you collect,or was it milkshake.

it's acutally shaving cream but now it's going to be light tea

If you get one of the John Guest fittings, namely a threaded elbow, do you think you'd be able to attach it to the bottom?

it won't fit. the threaded portion of the cup attachment needs a lot of room to unscrew.

 

[ScottM]

i have tried this and cracked my skimmer cup.
i could have used a better bit, but in the future i'd only do this if i was going thru the bottom plate.

be ready to buy a new collection cup....

 

[Armando]

wow Scott that's terrible.

since i'll be doing wet skim, an alternative would be just putting an Aqualifter pump draining the cup?

 

[ScottM]

i doubt that will work.
they fail with the slightest amount of build up.

i would take it to a local acrylic shop and have them put a hole in it for you. try all tech plastics not too far from you

 

[dedfish]

My used skimmer that I bought from a club memeber had the side of it drilled and a threaded/barb connector screwed into it. There was a small crack that I just patched with some weld-on 16.

As far as the aqualifter...do you think it would clog easy with all that skimmer junk running through it?

 

[dedfish]

I really think you can do it yourself as long as you start with a small bit and work up to the size you want. Take it nice and easy and don't force anything. I have plenty of weld-on 16 it it cracks at all. We can fix it right up.