For the money, these really aren't bad. I used mine for about 7 months. When I first got them, I wasn't thrilled with color balance, so I modified it with some cyans in the blue channel and replaced some of the white channel with cyans and the blues that were removed from the blue channel.
The unit your looking at is closer to what mine was modified to. That seems to be a needed change.
They came with 90' lenses and didn't the tank fully light from front to rear (~29"). Tried changing them to 120's which gave better coverage but not full. Removing the lenses completely gave the coverage I wanted. I have a canopy so mounting height was limited. If you are running an unobstructed top, you should be able to get coverage by adjusting the height.
Was able to get nice sunrise/set effect with half hour programming. The unit your looking at programs in 10 minute intervals. That will require inputting 60 steps over a 10 hour light cycle. You may be able to choose longer intervals. ie. 30 minutes. Mine could do 30 or 60.
Par output 7 inches below the water with the fixture 8 inches over the surface with 90 lenses = 500, 120 lenses = 350 about 275 without lenses
During all this fiddling around, it came to me that I would never quite get the look of the Ecoray, PacSuns and other high-end lights that I really loved. I finally bit the bullet and bought a PacSun.
Would I recommend getting that light? If that's what your budget will allow, go for it. My corals did fine and others have also. But if you can scrape together a few more nickels (or a wheelbarrow full) wait until you can.
Oh, the real output of is unit is 100 watts. Manufacturers like playing games. They install 60, 3 watt LEDs. 180 watts, right? Nope. Running an LED at the max will drastically shorten it's life. Suggested continuous power is about 2 watts. The working current listed in the specs (460mA) shows they are actually running about 1.7 watts