Tools to drill glass?
- Thread starter Nemo555
- Start date
NateHanson
Non-member
Here's an account of my drilling fun. http://www.bostonreefers.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9883
thanks for the link.
I think around 1" hole for now. I am also interested in drilling or cutting a 9" long by 1" wide along the top of the tank for an External over flow.
Hey Jcheung,
Are you anywhere near boston? we can practice drilling the tank together. I already bought the dremel the other day. I think i saw you at Skipston couple weeks ago. The dog in the picture is your right?
I think around 1" hole for now. I am also interested in drilling or cutting a 9" long by 1" wide along the top of the tank for an External over flow.
Hey Jcheung,
Are you anywhere near boston? we can practice drilling the tank together. I already bought the dremel the other day. I think i saw you at Skipston couple weeks ago. The dog in the picture is your right?
JCheung
Newbish
Yup, that is my dog. I'm going for the 1" bulkheads which needs, i think, a 1 3/4" hole. I'm in Waltham but i go to Skiptons just about every week, I have a Siberian Husky meetup at the park down the street from there. I don't have a dremel yet. I have been looking at eBay for the bits though, they seem pretty cheap. I wonder if a hand drill is good enough for the job. Anyone know if you need anything else besides the bit and drill to cut glass?
maurod
Non-member
Guys, I have a "test" tank I was planning to bring to the next meeting for a drilling demo. Get your bits and show up, I'll supply the glass.
For those of you who dont want to wait until then, feel free to pm me and drop over, You can have first crack at putting another hole in this 20tall I have
For those of you who dont want to wait until then, feel free to pm me and drop over, You can have first crack at putting another hole in this 20tall I have
NateHanson
Non-member
Many people have done it with a hand drill. I think you'd want a corded drill, because it takes a little while to go through thicker glass.
The trick with a hand drill is making sure that you don't tilt the drill a bit when your 1/2 way or 3/4 way through, because it'll break the glass. Wiggling a bit in the beginning is probably good because it creates a slightly larger hole, and then hold it as perfectly still as possible for the rest of the cut.
The trick with a hand drill is making sure that you don't tilt the drill a bit when your 1/2 way or 3/4 way through, because it'll break the glass. Wiggling a bit in the beginning is probably good because it creates a slightly larger hole, and then hold it as perfectly still as possible for the rest of the cut.
Don't forget to make a dam around where you want to drill. Plumber's putty works really well for that. Some people use anti-freeze to fill the dam...that makes me nervous, so I always used plain water.
Don't try to push the drill straight through. Press for a couple of seconds, then pull back to let the water in and cool the glass and the drill. I like to keep adding water to keep it cool. Also, if you've got the tank on it's side, put a towel underneath to cushion it, and another on the inside of the tank - when you drill through, the glass circle will fall out onto the towel instead of right onto the glass, keeping it from cracking from the impact.
Don't try to push the drill straight through. Press for a couple of seconds, then pull back to let the water in and cool the glass and the drill. I like to keep adding water to keep it cool. Also, if you've got the tank on it's side, put a towel underneath to cushion it, and another on the inside of the tank - when you drill through, the glass circle will fall out onto the towel instead of right onto the glass, keeping it from cracking from the impact.
NateHanson
Non-member
If possible clamp a piece of plywood behind the hole you're drilling. That way you won't get chip-out when the hole finishes, you'll just drill into the wood. Also, try not to have very light pressure on the drill towards the end of the hole to prevent chip-out. Only moderate pressure and good cooling (water bath) will remarkably extend the life of the bits. They can be totally shot after 3 or 4 holes if you drill hot and fast, or you can do dozens of slow holes with cooling, and barely notice any wear.
Nate
Nate
Glass Drilling
Just drilled 8 holes in fuge and display tanks. Got my drills from http://www.drillglass.com/biforho1la.html . Not the best drills, but much less expensive and good customer service. It's helpful to remember that drilling Schedule 40 bulkheads holes require smaller holes than Schedule 80 bulkhead For example Bulkhead holes for a 1.5 pipe. sch 40 = (2.5) sch 80 =(2.75)
I took a lot of time drilling and and kept at least a 1/4 inch deep of lubricant and drills are still good.
Just drilled 8 holes in fuge and display tanks. Got my drills from http://www.drillglass.com/biforho1la.html . Not the best drills, but much less expensive and good customer service. It's helpful to remember that drilling Schedule 40 bulkheads holes require smaller holes than Schedule 80 bulkhead For example Bulkhead holes for a 1.5 pipe. sch 40 = (2.5) sch 80 =(2.75)
I took a lot of time drilling and and kept at least a 1/4 inch deep of lubricant and drills are still good.
Last edited:
RichConley
Attack of the Killer Cute
Anyone who uses antifreeze has no idea what theyre doing.
Its a poorer coolant and lubricant than water, and is toxic. Theres NO valid reason to use it.
PostMills, you can get those same bits from HarborFreight, or Ebay, for about $5 a piece. They work great.
NateHanson
Non-member
(moved to the DIY forum)
