What was you last DIY project and how did it turn out?
- Thread starter Cpage101
- Start date
Pat02026
Non-member
I’m the final stages of a diy “Drain basin” for ejecting wastewater out of the side of the house. Consists of JBJ auto top off controller with its float switches operating in reverse, a cheapo 1/3hp pressure rated submersible pump from Amazon, a covered bucket and a little bit of misc on hand plumbing parts.
In the bucket sits the pump and two float switches. As the bucket fills from waste tank water during water changes, switch one closes a few inches up from the bottom of the bucket. Once the water level reaches switch two, the pump runs and ejects water through 1/2” PEX I plumbed to a spigot outside of the house to the side yard. There is a check valve in-line to prevent drain back.
I did this because there’s no drain/sink in my basement, and I wanted to avoid sending any tank water to our septic system. I have a hose running it into the woods. ~$100 and no more running buckets of water up from the basement to empty outside. I’ve also plumbed my freshwater and mixing stations in pex (and PVC ball valves, it’s all done in plastic so no metal contact anywhere) to the tank about 25’ away so there’s just a few valves to open and close for all of the tanks maintenance needs. I’ll snap a few pics once it’s finished. It’s a bit Frankenstein at the moment, but it was all proven out just tonight. Now to tidy it all up.
In the bucket sits the pump and two float switches. As the bucket fills from waste tank water during water changes, switch one closes a few inches up from the bottom of the bucket. Once the water level reaches switch two, the pump runs and ejects water through 1/2” PEX I plumbed to a spigot outside of the house to the side yard. There is a check valve in-line to prevent drain back.
I did this because there’s no drain/sink in my basement, and I wanted to avoid sending any tank water to our septic system. I have a hose running it into the woods. ~$100 and no more running buckets of water up from the basement to empty outside. I’ve also plumbed my freshwater and mixing stations in pex (and PVC ball valves, it’s all done in plastic so no metal contact anywhere) to the tank about 25’ away so there’s just a few valves to open and close for all of the tanks maintenance needs. I’ll snap a few pics once it’s finished. It’s a bit Frankenstein at the moment, but it was all proven out just tonight. Now to tidy it all up.
coralfishreef
Well-Known Member
Pat02026
Non-member
I used a frost free silcock at the house outlet, so the last few inches at the side of the house always drains; I figure this plus the salt content of the wastewater should keep anything from freezing. The only concern would be the hose outside, but again counting on the salt to prevent any issues. All of the PEX is in the house (heated basement). The pump won’t build enough pressure to blow anything apart in the event that we end up with an ice buildup situation outside, so I am pretty confident on the setup. It’s still a very hands on system, the bucket isn’t sealed tightly (yet) so I have to visually monitor its operation as to not fill the bucket too quickly and overflow it if it fills quicker than it empties.
I do plan on it being a sealed system once I know everything is functioning perfectly. A $350 laundry basin would accomplish all of this, but I’m too cheap for that and like to play with building stuff. This is a lot smaller and tailored to its needs. There is also a 10 gallon tank plumbed to the waste system and fresh mix system that is my QT tank. It’s nice to have a tank in-line with this system that is separate from the display that is effortless to do 0-100% water changes in minutes. Makes QT’ing fish much more desirable due to simplicity (Based on the BRStv 80/20 QT)
Also for what it’s worth, I’ve been ejecting RODI waste outside through 1/4” tubing. That luckily has never froze up on me or caused any problems either. That drains through a short stub out of a foundation window into a downspout to direct it away from the house/foundation as it would rainwater.
DylanCameron
Treasurer/BOD 2023
Sweet, I would love to hear more about your experience with reef-pi. I stumbled across it a year or two ago and it's been on my project list for a while. How long have you been using it as a controller?
Think I started with reef-pi around 2018 or so on my old tank (40g Breeder), mainly to control my DIY LED light (think I had 7 PWM channels). Running it on a pi-zero-W. Nothing fancy just a basic setup but it was nice to be able to control and schedule 7 channels of leds from a webpage.
In 2021, I downgraded to a waterbox 25g but have an AI Hydra 26HD light so now I am only using the reef-pi for ATO, temp/Heater, return pump (made a macro for a 30 min feed mode to turn off the pump). Pretty sweet that reef-pi works to control Kasa power outlets. Just setup a new bookshelf tank (11g long) and plan to use the esp32 board to add similar items to this tank but integrate it to be controlled from the reef-pi on my 25g. Also have telemetry enabled to send me alert emails.
The esp32 option is new in the software, it was just added in Nov I think as a way use reef-pi from a linux pc instead of a raspberry pi (which have been tough to get or super expensive recently due to supply shortages). I am also thinking about making up another esp32s to integrate into a DIY led enclosure to minimize the number of cables to it. DIY LEDs aren't really cost efficient these days due to the lower cost of some lights like Smatfarm, Nicrew, or Noopsyche, but I have some parts to scavenge off my old system and wanted to get it all working as a backup in case one of my other lights fails.
OP
OP
Cpage101
Current BRS Vice President
nice any pics of the light rail build that’s real clean looking
MikeG
Non-member
It is just 80/20 extruded aluminum bought cut to length with internal fasteners, got the standoffs for the reef breeders from the same company.
The factory Reef breeder hanging hardware was just replaced with a square nut that fit into the rail, swapped by removing the endcaps, sliding the stock hardware out and putting these nuts in. The hanging hardware is screwed tight to the light so it stays in place, but the stand offs can slide within the 80/20 rail to adjust the position of the lights.
and then sourcing the hanging supplies from a pendant lighting company, the hanging hardware is rated for about 75# each so should hold 300#. The fixture is about 1/4 of that with all the lights attached.
In the ceiling, there are 2/4's screwed in between the framing and the anchors are screwed into those 2x4's with 3" decking screws.
OP
OP
Cpage101
Current BRS Vice President
This is an awesome way to mount multiple RB lights. Thanks for sharing
MikeG
Non-member
Thanks
Kens Bees
Well-Known Member
I just finished wiring new float sensors into a 6 pin mini to get an awc/ato system in my frag tank. I couldn’t see spending $40 each for GHL sensors so I got a six pack of sensors from Amazon for $14. those were spliced into a long computer extension cable while leaving the male end in place. So far I’m under $10 for what would have been about a 100 if was from GHL. Drain and fill pumps next, also on the cheap.
