Return pump question.

Coral Box DC pump 12000 is a beast, and controllable. They make smaller ones too. Turn it down to your desired flow rate and save money. I suggest plumbing it with max size return plumbing of 1.5" to multiple eductors or 3/4 return spouts if you really want to take advantage of the DC pump energy savings. The electricity is the biggest long term cost in the aquarium hobby. I run redundant DCA4000 pumps on a 180 plumbed with 1" main return line and feeding two 3/4 loc-line return nozzles and the flow rate is huge when on full blast. My head height is only 5' on that install though.
 
18ft is quite a head pressure. Maybe this will do.
 
What is the current GPH of your pump now? And are there any areas in the plumbing you can use spa flex pipe instead of 90 deg elbows?
 
Hydor 3200. But because temporary sump has to stay till new one is built the pump isn't pushing. It was with old sump. . It should be buts its not. have a spare which is the same for easy swap out n clean. Swapped controller. Took it off apex outlet. Ive been cleaning or trying to clean out returns. Lotsa gunk. Its just not pushing. To get it back online plumbing got done but in my haste i didnt put union near t. Been at this since yesterday. Ive about given up. Hoping a stronger pump will solve problem. Or its back to cutting pipes.
 
Heres the insanity till sump gets built. Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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Head pressure is the height to which the pump needs to push water. So in the case where you have the sump right next to the tank, the head pressure that you are talking about is just about 5 feet. You are likely referring to the pipe run length when you say 18 feet.

You will be good with any pump rated for 8 feet of head height or more. For example Varios 6 pump rated at 1700 gph, would provide about 1000 gph at 5 feet head pressure.

You do have a loss in flow due to l-bows and horizontal run length, but is minimal and wouldn't equate to head pressure loss.
 
Head pressure is the height to which the pump needs to push water. So in the case where you have the sump right next to the tank, the head pressure that you are talking about is just about 5 feet. You are likely referring to the pipe run length when you say 18 feet.

You will be good with any pump rated for 8 feet of head height or more. For example Varios 6 pump rated at 1700 gph, would provide about 1000 gph at 5 feet head pressure.

You do have a loss in flow due to l-bows and horizontal run length, but is minimal and wouldn't equate to head pressure loss.
The hydros is rated 10 ft. Hows that pan out. Varios a stronger pump. ?
 
What flow are you looking for? Do you really need a controllable pump?

I've never been a fan of the dc pumps. Head pressure seems to always be way overstated.

I'm running a Pondmaster 9.5 on my seahorse tank. The sump is in the basement, tank on 1st floor. Plumbing is 3/4" runs 4' straight up then two 45's, 10' run that rises 1' two more 90 degree bends (made of 4 45's) another straight 5' lift to another 90' bend (using 45s) into the tank. All that still produces 320 GPH while using 90 watts.
 
What flow are you looking for? Do you really need a controllable pump?

I've never been a fan of the dc pumps. Head pressure seems to always be way overstated.

I'm running a Pondmaster 9.5 on my seahorse tank. The sump is in the basement, tank on 1st floor. Plumbing is 3/4" runs 4' straight up then two 45's, 10' run that rises 1' two more 90 degree bends (made of 4 45's) another straight 5' lift to another 90' bend (using 45s) into the tank. All that still produces 320 GPH while using 90 watts.
Im wondering if returns clogged
 
For Hydor return pumps, it is a known issue that the magnetic rotor can be cracked and reduces its flow rate dramatically, also it is not safe to run it if that happens.
First thing I will do is to give it an acid bath and take the impeller out to inspect the magnent.
If the magnent looks ok and it pushes a lot of water, check the return line for clog.
 
For Hydor return pumps, it is a known issue that the magnetic rotor can be cracked and reduces its flow rate dramatically, also it is not safe to run it if that happens.
First thing I will do is to give it an acid bath and take the impeller out to inspect the magnent.
If the magnent looks ok and it pushes a lot of water, check the return line for clog.
Trying to fish line in there. Some crud came out. Cant get anything in there. Im tempted to get vinegar down in there.
 
Can you pull the impeller out from the body of the pump?
The impeller should be easily pulled out of the housing. If the impeller is jammed inside, it is very likely that the magnent cracked.
 
I have two so i swap out. Taken both apart. Their great. Only 9 mo. Old. Its weird flow just went to nothing
 
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