ICP Test Results Question

Countryreefer

Well-Known Member
BRS Member
So...I was having issues with losing some of my sps and lps so I sent in an ATI ICP test to see if there was something wrong with my water. The ATI test also tests an ro water sample as well. The ro came back perfect so I know that is not the issue. The tank water came back at 90%. The major thing that was not near the recommended level was the iodine. It came back as 15.62 micograms/l vs. the ATI ideal value of 65.03 micrograms/l. Would an iodine deficiency like this cause coral death? The ATI recommendation for this was was under the important fix category.

The other couple elements that were low and they recommended to adjust were:
Sulfer 798.1 mg/l Ideal value 920.4 mg/l
Bromine 49.87 mg/l Ideal value 67.03 mg/l
Fluorine 0.35 mg/l Ideal value 1.30 mg/l
Manganese 0 micrograms/l Ideal value 1.00 micrograms/l

I'm looking for suggestions on if these values are the cause for coral loss and if so, the best way to bring the correct elements back to the correct value. Thanks in advance.
 
Iodine addition helps some people while to some they notice zero effect. If you do choose to add it it’ll have to be a daily dose since it comes out of solution quickly but mind that overdosing could wipe your whole tank.
 
What issues you were having with the corals ? died overnight ? they were dying from the base up , etc
 
What issues you were having with the corals ? died overnight ? they were dying from the base up , etc

The sps started to loose color(turn brownish) and polyp extension became less. This would happen over a week or longer depending on the coral. Some of them would still show signs of polyps and would seem to get slightly better with a water change then revert to closing up again. I am doing weekly water changes of 10%. The lps(mostly euphyllia) would slowly loose one head at a time.
 
IMHO I would not chase micro nutrients like Iodine and Bromine. A good rule I always heard is don't dose anything you can't measure. I think for Iodine you can get more through feeding (Frozen and other coral foods) if I recall. You have to google to confirm. I would look to add some of the amino's or other coral foods a lot of the sps growers on forum recommend.

What are you running for lights and have you tested for Par numbers. That might be a good place to start.
 
Iodine is actually very important to the zooxanthella. Zooxanthella produces oxygen I believe and the excess oxygen bothers the corals polyps and causes them to close and starves themselves. The iodine in the water helps remove that excess oxygen and allows the polyps to open.
 
Presence of iodine is vital to hermatypic invertebrates because it is used to detoxify excess oxygen produced by zooxanthellae. This oxygen irritates sensitive tissue. Corals and clams that appear to shrivel or close under intense lighting are likely attempting to shade their zooxanthellae symbionts to reduce the rate of oxygen production. Iodide essentially bonds with oxygen to form non-toxic iodate, relieving the need to shield zooxanthellae and enabling the host organism to open more fully.

The predominant form of iodine in seawater is iodide. The natural seawater concentration of all iodine species combined is approximately 0.06 ppm, classifying it as a minor element. Even in this small concentration, iodine is required for survival of fishes, crustaceans, macroalgae and kelp, and hermatypic invertebrates alike. The importance of iodine in a reef aquarium cannot be overstated. Iodine binds rapidly with latent organic material and is passively removed by aggressive protein skimming and the use of organic-adsorption products such as activated carbon and specialty resins. The combined biological and chemical depletion of iodine necessitate that its concentration be monitored and the aquarium supplemented as needed. The rate at which iodine is extracted from the water is determined by the stocking density of reef-building livestock, type of lighting, and other biological, physical, and chemical conditions.
 
Presence of iodine is vital to hermatypic invertebrates because it is used to detoxify excess oxygen produced by zooxanthellae. This oxygen irritates sensitive tissue. Corals and clams that appear to shrivel or close under intense lighting are likely attempting to shade their zooxanthellae symbionts to reduce the rate of oxygen production. Iodide essentially bonds with oxygen to form non-toxic iodate, relieving the need to shield zooxanthellae and enabling the host organism to open more fully.

The predominant form of iodine in seawater is iodide. The natural seawater concentration of all iodine species combined is approximately 0.06 ppm, classifying it as a minor element. Even in this small concentration, iodine is required for survival of fishes, crustaceans, macroalgae and kelp, and hermatypic invertebrates alike. The importance of iodine in a reef aquarium cannot be overstated. Iodine binds rapidly with latent organic material and is passively removed by aggressive protein skimming and the use of organic-adsorption products such as activated carbon and specialty resins. The combined biological and chemical depletion of iodine necessitate that its concentration be monitored and the aquarium supplemented as needed. The rate at which iodine is extracted from the water is determined by the stocking density of reef-building livestock, type of lighting, and other biological, physical, and chemical conditions.

Can this replenished by dosing with ESV 2part or alike? Is this something that needs to be controlled by some other form of dosing?
 
Can this replenished by dosing with ESV 2part or alike? Is this something that needs to be controlled by some other form of dosing?

It can be replenished any way with water changes, ESV calcium may contain iodine not 100% sure, most trace elements supplements probably contain iodine, Brightwell Aquatics has the lugols iodine. You just have to be careful you don’t won’t to overdose and if you’re going to be dosing iodine you definitely will need to be testing. Everyone’s iodine consumption is going to be different so for some water changes might be enough to keep their iodine up others might need to supplement.
 
Here is a good article by Randy on Iodine.
 
Thanks for all of the replies. Looks like I got some more reading to do. I'm wondering if it is the salt that I am using that just doesn't have enough trace elements? Do you think I would be better off trying to change salt mix or dose the iodine?
 
Back
Top