Dumb question about wall light switch replacement
- Thread starter Armando
- Start date
Member No. 1
Zoo Keeper
If the wall switch has 3 wires, and one is NOT a ground ( bare/green) then it is on a 3-way circuit. Does it work in conjuntion with an other switch to control 1 light? If so then you might not be able to use the timer.
Can we get a pic of the back side of the timer with the pins?
Can we get a pic of the back side of the timer with the pins?
NateHanson
Non-member
Yep. What Member 1 said.
Is one of the wires on the back of the old switch bare copper? If not, you've got a 3-way switch circuit, and you'll need to try to get a 3-way timer switch.
Is one of the wires on the back of the old switch bare copper? If not, you've got a 3-way switch circuit, and you'll need to try to get a 3-way timer switch.
Member No. 1
Zoo Keeper
If I see a picture of what the back of the timer looks like, I might be able to help.
But off hand, you could solder 2 leads onto the pins, tape well, then attach them to the 2 wires you take off the switch. Make sence?
But off hand, you could solder 2 leads onto the pins, tape well, then attach them to the 2 wires you take off the switch. Make sence?
NateHanson
Non-member
You don't need to do any modification or soldering (in fact I wouldn't modify any switch or receptacle). Just attach that bare wire to the box if there is no green screw anywhere on the new switch. You really should have 2 bare wires in that box, one coming from your electrical panel, and one going to the ceiling fixture. Those should be connected to eachother with a yellow or red wire nut, and if the box is metalic, they should also be attached to a screw in the back of the box.
Member No. 1
Zoo Keeper
Nate, I believe the new switch does not have any screw terminals that is why I told him to solder leads to the "pins". This way he can wire nut the leads to the line/load wires.NateHanson said:
Simple switch circuit...
Wire into box from panel (Line)
Wire out to device such as a lamp or light (Load)
Bare wires get twisted together, then either screwed to the
switch itself or to the box if it's metallic.
White wire (neutral) are wire nutted together.
Black wires are connected to the switch Line/Load
denvig
Time To Wake Up
Does this help
http://www.intermatic.com/images/instruction_sheets/ff.pdf
http://www.intermatic.com/images/instruction_sheets/ff.pdf
Member No. 1
Zoo Keeper
Armando, is that the switch you have? If so then it would be a piece of cake.denvig said:
NateHanson
Non-member
Member No. 1 said:
I don't think I would ever solder a connection for household wiring. Seems to risky that the hot could break off and short somewhere. There's got to be a better way that's still safe.
Member No. 1
Zoo Keeper
Understand your concerns, and that is a good point. If you mean "break" as in becoming un-soldered due to heat related issues, then if it gets hot enough to melt the solder, then he's got some serious bigger problems elsewhere. But if you mean "snap off" I do see your point. Maybe there is a way to add a strain releif to add in the strenght of the connection. If I did solder a wire on I would use THHN ( stranded wire) vs the soild type. More flexible.NateHanson said:
Just trying to help.
Member No. 1
Zoo Keeper
Lossen the 2 screws on the front, strip the wires like it shows, insert wires from the right side and tighten screws.Armando said:
The directions look pretty easy. If you still have problems, pm me and I give you my cell#
denvig
Time To Wake Up
Are you sure there is not a green wire coming out of the switch box? It may not use a ground, as the switch only interrupts the load (black) wire. But usually there is some place for the ground. If not attach the ground (bare copper wire) to the J box and the switch will be grounded through the mounting screws.
