How does it work? Vol 6: Controllers
- Thread starter Moe_K
- Start date
Controllers are any device that has a set of rules to turn something on or off. Think of these as simple decision makers for you. Right now, everyone has at least one, probably 2 different types.
As an example, your heater! It has a controller in it that in effect says "if temperature is less than <some temperature> turn on, if temperature is greater than <same temperature> turn off."
A timer operates the same way, in that it works by "if time is equal to <some time>, allow power to pass through to outlet. if time is equal to <a different time>, do not allow power to pass to outlet."
A step up from there is to a specific controller, such as a pH controller that would be used on a calcium reactor. The effluent (water coming out of a calcium reactor) typically has a pH lower than the tank water due to the CO2 being added to the water. So a pH controller has a probe to constantly measure pH. It monitors the value constantly along the lines of "If pH is lower than 8.0, turn off power". In this case, what is plugged into power is a powered solenoid valve on the C02 tank!
So, the pH controller monitors the tank water for a low pH condition, and if that happens it turns off the source of CO2, preventing the pH in the tank dropping any lower due to CO2 addition.
The same thing can be done for salinity, etc.
Then you have dual stage controllers, which are most often seen for temperature control when there is both a heater and a chiller. These have 2 seperate power outputs. In essence, a dual stage controller is just 2 temperature controllers in one device. Same set of rules as above, just flopped for the different outputs. One set turns the heater off when the temperature gets too high, and back on when it gets too low. The other one, for the chiller, turns the chiller on when the temperature gets too high, and off when the temperature gets too low.
A combo pH / temperature controller is another variant on dual controllers.
Next post in a few minutes... full system controllers.
As an example, your heater! It has a controller in it that in effect says "if temperature is less than <some temperature> turn on, if temperature is greater than <same temperature> turn off."
A timer operates the same way, in that it works by "if time is equal to <some time>, allow power to pass through to outlet. if time is equal to <a different time>, do not allow power to pass to outlet."
A step up from there is to a specific controller, such as a pH controller that would be used on a calcium reactor. The effluent (water coming out of a calcium reactor) typically has a pH lower than the tank water due to the CO2 being added to the water. So a pH controller has a probe to constantly measure pH. It monitors the value constantly along the lines of "If pH is lower than 8.0, turn off power". In this case, what is plugged into power is a powered solenoid valve on the C02 tank!
So, the pH controller monitors the tank water for a low pH condition, and if that happens it turns off the source of CO2, preventing the pH in the tank dropping any lower due to CO2 addition.The same thing can be done for salinity, etc.
Then you have dual stage controllers, which are most often seen for temperature control when there is both a heater and a chiller. These have 2 seperate power outputs. In essence, a dual stage controller is just 2 temperature controllers in one device. Same set of rules as above, just flopped for the different outputs. One set turns the heater off when the temperature gets too high, and back on when it gets too low. The other one, for the chiller, turns the chiller on when the temperature gets too high, and off when the temperature gets too low.
A combo pH / temperature controller is another variant on dual controllers.
Next post in a few minutes... full system controllers.
For full system controllers, there are mainly two types. There are the made for aquarium use products (Neptune Aquacontroller, Aquadyne Octopus, another German made one that I can't remember the name too), and then there are PLC (programmable logic control) devices. The first type are PLC's but with a nice user interface made for aquarium use. PLC's are what are used in industrial work, but can be made to work for aquariums as well, but require much more knowledge and expertise to make them work.
For the purpose of this discussion, I'll focus on the first set.
These products (aquacontroller, octopus, etc) are multi-function controllers and monitors. Not only can the perform multiple control functions as discussed above, but they also can record the data to keep a log of what goes on with your tank.
Common things that can be monitored by various companies products:
pH
temperature
ORP (oxygen redux potential)
salinity
dissolved oxygen
To measure any of the above items, a probe is attached to the device and placed into the water of your system, preferably in the sump where it won't be bothered.
In these systems, there is a programming language that relates to the above statements. For example, on temperature, one of these systems would read:
"If temp < 78, Heater = on"
"If temp > 80, Heater = off"
Now though is when the true beauty of a system as one of these comes into play, because those basic statements can be expanded to the following:
"If temp < 78, Heater = on"
"If temp > 80, Heater = off"
"If temp > 81, MH1 = off"
"If temp > 82, MH2 = off"
"If temp > 83, Fan1 = on"
"If temp > 84, Alarm = on"
What all that means is multiple conditions can occur to make something happen. Here we see the first two control a normal heater. If the tank temperature keeps rising though, first it will turn off the first metal halide light. If it still rises, the other metal halide will turn off. If it continues to rise more, a fan will turn on over the tank for evaporation cooling. If it continues to rise still, it will trigger the alarm.
Ahh... the alarm The absolute best part of these devices. So what happens if the alarm goes off?? That all depends on how you set it up. It could turn on a loud siren, or a warning light.
Another option is to have it email all the tank parameters In my case, the email address it sends them to is my cell phone. So, if an alarm condition is triggered, I receive an email with the parameters of my tank so I can call someone to take a look at my tank, and I can walk them through fixing the problem (hopefully!
So the main reason for a controller for me?? Insurance. I view having one on my tank cheap insurance protecting my tank.
Next post... additional features that these systems provide.
For the purpose of this discussion, I'll focus on the first set.
These products (aquacontroller, octopus, etc) are multi-function controllers and monitors. Not only can the perform multiple control functions as discussed above, but they also can record the data to keep a log of what goes on with your tank.
Common things that can be monitored by various companies products:
pH
temperature
ORP (oxygen redux potential)
salinity
dissolved oxygen
To measure any of the above items, a probe is attached to the device and placed into the water of your system, preferably in the sump where it won't be bothered.
In these systems, there is a programming language that relates to the above statements. For example, on temperature, one of these systems would read:
"If temp < 78, Heater = on"
"If temp > 80, Heater = off"
Now though is when the true beauty of a system as one of these comes into play, because those basic statements can be expanded to the following:
"If temp < 78, Heater = on"
"If temp > 80, Heater = off"
"If temp > 81, MH1 = off"
"If temp > 82, MH2 = off"
"If temp > 83, Fan1 = on"
"If temp > 84, Alarm = on"
What all that means is multiple conditions can occur to make something happen. Here we see the first two control a normal heater. If the tank temperature keeps rising though, first it will turn off the first metal halide light. If it still rises, the other metal halide will turn off. If it continues to rise more, a fan will turn on over the tank for evaporation cooling. If it continues to rise still, it will trigger the alarm.
Ahh... the alarm
The absolute best part of these devices. So what happens if the alarm goes off?? That all depends on how you set it up. It could turn on a loud siren, or a warning light.Another option is to have it email all the tank parameters
In my case, the email address it sends them to is my cell phone. So, if an alarm condition is triggered, I receive an email with the parameters of my tank so I can call someone to take a look at my tank, and I can walk them through fixing the problem (hopefully! So the main reason for a controller for me?? Insurance. I view having one on my tank cheap insurance protecting my tank.
Next post... additional features that these systems provide.
Well, now that I have this insurance device (controller) up and running on my tank, what else can it do for me??
I mentioned previously it can record values. Most of the devices on their own can only record a short time frame, a day or 2, depending on how often a reading is stored. So, a computer can be hooked up to the controller to download the monitored values, and stored in a database. The information in the database can then be graphed to show trends.
Hmm... so what??
Although almost everything in aquaria can be debated, maintaining stable (unchanging) values in our tanks is something everyone IMO should strive for. As an example, you might check your pH every night before you go to bed religiously with a digital pH tester. You get the same reading almost every day, so you think your tank is "stable". Well, once your lights go out, conditions in your tank change, and the pH fluctuates. Here is where the controller comes in. You set the controller to take a reading every 5 minutes and store it to the database. You let it run for a few days, and then graph that data.
The data might reveal that your pH barely changes... but more likely there is a pH swing that happens everyday. It might be little and nothing to worry about, it might be significant, 0.4 or more!! The datalogging of the controller is what allows you to see this information though. Of course just knowing the condition exists in your tank isn't where it ends, you then need to do something about it
Another thing that storing and graphing the data that is beneficial is looking for trends. ORP is one of those values that a general consensus has not been realized. Not getting into that debate, regardless of what value your tank normally stays at, a big CHANGE in that value can not mean a good thing. So, something that the controller can monitor for is a big change... you can specify something like "if the ORP changes more than 50 points in 1 hour, turn on the alarm". It could mean that your protein skimmer is no longer working, or that something died in your tank and is decomposing. Either way, it is something you should go check into.
With the computer attached another option exists (depending on the exact product). With the Neptune Aquacontroller, their software Aquanotes will set up a web site on the computer that is connected to the aquacontroller. From this web site, you can from anywhere in the world check your tank conditions that are monitored, look at the graphs, etc. Not only that, but you can control anything your controller does automatically manually right on the spot. Maybe you know your main return pump needs to be left off for 10 minutes before it turns back on for it to start up correctly. Metal halide lights have a similiar problem with that. Although this is just another condition that can be programmed.
The aquacontroller will sense if power is lost. You can have statements in place that say something like:
"If power is off, on resume MH1 turn off for 5 minutes, then turn back on"
This way if the power just flicked on and off really quick, the controller will turn the halides off for 5 minutes before turning them back on.
Lastly, most of the products have just an input / output connection (IO). This can be used for many things, such as a float switch. A float switch can be connected to the IO, so that when the switch is triggered (say your main tank is overflowing), it will turn off the return pump. Additionally, you can tell it that if that condition occurs (the main tank is overflowing), NOT to turn the main pump back on. This way it doesn't just keep turning your main pump on and off every few minutes. Your main pump will stay off until you get to your tank to fix whatever is causing your main tank to overflow.
Next up, bonus features....
I mentioned previously it can record values. Most of the devices on their own can only record a short time frame, a day or 2, depending on how often a reading is stored. So, a computer can be hooked up to the controller to download the monitored values, and stored in a database. The information in the database can then be graphed to show trends.
Hmm... so what??
Although almost everything in aquaria can be debated, maintaining stable (unchanging) values in our tanks is something everyone IMO should strive for. As an example, you might check your pH every night before you go to bed religiously with a digital pH tester. You get the same reading almost every day, so you think your tank is "stable". Well, once your lights go out, conditions in your tank change, and the pH fluctuates. Here is where the controller comes in. You set the controller to take a reading every 5 minutes and store it to the database. You let it run for a few days, and then graph that data.
The data might reveal that your pH barely changes... but more likely there is a pH swing that happens everyday. It might be little and nothing to worry about, it might be significant, 0.4 or more!! The datalogging of the controller is what allows you to see this information though. Of course just knowing the condition exists in your tank isn't where it ends, you then need to do something about it
Another thing that storing and graphing the data that is beneficial is looking for trends. ORP is one of those values that a general consensus has not been realized. Not getting into that debate, regardless of what value your tank normally stays at, a big CHANGE in that value can not mean a good thing. So, something that the controller can monitor for is a big change... you can specify something like "if the ORP changes more than 50 points in 1 hour, turn on the alarm". It could mean that your protein skimmer is no longer working, or that something died in your tank and is decomposing. Either way, it is something you should go check into.
With the computer attached another option exists (depending on the exact product). With the Neptune Aquacontroller, their software Aquanotes will set up a web site on the computer that is connected to the aquacontroller. From this web site, you can from anywhere in the world check your tank conditions that are monitored, look at the graphs, etc. Not only that, but you can control anything your controller does automatically manually right on the spot. Maybe you know your main return pump needs to be left off for 10 minutes before it turns back on for it to start up correctly. Metal halide lights have a similiar problem with that. Although this is just another condition that can be programmed.
The aquacontroller will sense if power is lost. You can have statements in place that say something like:
"If power is off, on resume MH1 turn off for 5 minutes, then turn back on"
This way if the power just flicked on and off really quick, the controller will turn the halides off for 5 minutes before turning them back on.
Lastly, most of the products have just an input / output connection (IO). This can be used for many things, such as a float switch. A float switch can be connected to the IO, so that when the switch is triggered (say your main tank is overflowing), it will turn off the return pump. Additionally, you can tell it that if that condition occurs (the main tank is overflowing), NOT to turn the main pump back on. This way it doesn't just keep turning your main pump on and off every few minutes. Your main pump will stay off until you get to your tank to fix whatever is causing your main tank to overflow.
Next up, bonus features....
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The things that I consider to be bonus features...
seasonal changes! The Neptune Aquacontroller has a seasonal table that can be used for both lighting and temperature. What this does is make the lighting period longer and the temperature warmer during the summer months, and shorter and cooler in the winter months. This is a gradual change that slightly changes each day. Additionally, it can control a moonlight for a complete lunar cycle as well.
Also, a timed event (such as stirring a kalkwasser reactor or dosing chemicals by pump) can be done. Also, some models can be used as a wavemaker controller by turning powerheads on and off.
Additionally, some models have a feed mode, where specified devices will turn off for a specified amount of time (like all your powerheads for 5 minutes) while you feed the tank.
The other bonus stems from the ability to turn things on and off from remote.. having fun with your loved ones!! When you are gone and you know they are home, turn the lights on the tank on and off J/K! (ok, maybe I'm not kidding)
And finally, a list of links to these products:
dual temperature controller:
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=MU1113
single type controllers:
http://www.americanmarineusa.com/
Dual ph / temp controller:
http://www.reeffanatic.com/products/ph-controllers-and-ph-monitors/ph-temp-monitor.asp
Digital Aquatics Reefkeeper:
http://www.digitalaquatics.com/reefkeeper.htm
Neptune Aquacontroller:
http://www.neptunesys.com/
Aquadyne Octopus:
http://www.aquadyne.com/
Automated Aquariums (PLC type):
http://www.automatedaquariums.com/aascont5a.htm
seasonal changes!
The Neptune Aquacontroller has a seasonal table that can be used for both lighting and temperature. What this does is make the lighting period longer and the temperature warmer during the summer months, and shorter and cooler in the winter months. This is a gradual change that slightly changes each day. Additionally, it can control a moonlight for a complete lunar cycle as well.Also, a timed event (such as stirring a kalkwasser reactor or dosing chemicals by pump) can be done. Also, some models can be used as a wavemaker controller by turning powerheads on and off.
Additionally, some models have a feed mode, where specified devices will turn off for a specified amount of time (like all your powerheads for 5 minutes) while you feed the tank.
The other bonus stems from the ability to turn things on and off from remote.. having fun with your loved ones!! When you are gone and you know they are home, turn the lights on the tank on and off
J/K! (ok, maybe I'm not kidding) And finally, a list of links to these products:
dual temperature controller:
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=MU1113
single type controllers:
http://www.americanmarineusa.com/
Dual ph / temp controller:
http://www.reeffanatic.com/products/ph-controllers-and-ph-monitors/ph-temp-monitor.asp
Digital Aquatics Reefkeeper:
http://www.digitalaquatics.com/reefkeeper.htm
Neptune Aquacontroller:
http://www.neptunesys.com/
Aquadyne Octopus:
http://www.aquadyne.com/
Automated Aquariums (PLC type):
http://www.automatedaquariums.com/aascont5a.htm
OK, this is gonna seem like a silly question. You have all the stuff...heaters, lights, pumps, yada...yada...yada...
All this stuff is controlled by one controller. Is there places to plug all this stuff in? do you have to buy multiple power strips? I know by looking at some of the links, they have (what look like) power strips, but I have a lot of equipment that use large box like plugs (yes, another technical description ), so I can never use all the outlets on the power strips. Did that make sense?
Anyone (reef55) have a pic of something like this set-up?
-Linda
All this stuff is controlled by one controller. Is there places to plug all this stuff in? do you have to buy multiple power strips? I know by looking at some of the links, they have (what look like) power strips, but I have a lot of equipment that use large box like plugs (yes, another technical description
), so I can never use all the outlets on the power strips. Did that make sense?Anyone (reef55) have a pic of something like this set-up?
-Linda
To answer your question Linda.. it depends.
For the Neptune Aquacontroller, you can either use X10 modules or buy a box that directly connects to the aquacontroller that has 4 outlets. In my case, I use X10 modules. These are small white boxes (similiar in size to the large box plugs you mentioned). Another way to think of them is about the size of a timer you plug in. The X10 module has an outlet on it, that whatever device I want to control I plug into it. An X10 module is required for each item I want to control. Does that explain it?
For the Neptune Aquacontroller, you can either use X10 modules or buy a box that directly connects to the aquacontroller that has 4 outlets. In my case, I use X10 modules. These are small white boxes (similiar in size to the large box plugs you mentioned). Another way to think of them is about the size of a timer you plug in. The X10 module has an outlet on it, that whatever device I want to control I plug into it. An X10 module is required for each item I want to control. Does that explain it?
Kinda....OK...take a look at the reefkeeper, here...
http://www.digitalaquatics.com/reefkeeper.htm
OK...the controller thing is connected to a bank of plugs (in this case it appears to be 8, others I have seen as 4). OK, now suppose you have more than 8 things to plug into the outlets. Do you have to (or can you) add another one of their power strips.
I know what those x10 modules are. I actually use them on my lights upstairs. I got tired of timers malfunctioning. They are very nice. The "boxes" I was refering to are actually more like the controllers on the won brothers titatium heaters and things like like. Bulkier than a normal plug. So, on standard powerstrips, they use an outlet, plus make the outlets on either side unusable. So.....I wind up using twice as many powerstrips as I really need because I cannot use all the outlets.
Wow...I really can't put two sentences together, today. Am I making sense at all?
-Linda
http://www.digitalaquatics.com/reefkeeper.htm
OK...the controller thing is connected to a bank of plugs (in this case it appears to be 8, others I have seen as 4). OK, now suppose you have more than 8 things to plug into the outlets. Do you have to (or can you) add another one of their power strips.
I know what those x10 modules are. I actually use them on my lights upstairs. I got tired of timers malfunctioning. They are very nice.
The "boxes" I was refering to are actually more like the controllers on the won brothers titatium heaters and things like like. Bulkier than a normal plug. So, on standard powerstrips, they use an outlet, plus make the outlets on either side unusable. So.....I wind up using twice as many powerstrips as I really need because I cannot use all the outlets. Wow...I really can't put two sentences together, today.
Am I making sense at all? -Linda
Linda, making perfect sense
In the case of the reefkeeper by digital aquatics, the 8 outlets is its limitation. That is all it can do.
In the neptune aquacontroller, you can buy a 4 outlet version of what you see on the reefkeeper (and can daisy chain numerous ones together) and ALSO use X10 modules, or use just X10 modules.
For your bulkier than normal plug woes, I present your solution:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=45342&item=6715826645&rd=1
I bought a set from the guy, love them!
In the case of the reefkeeper by digital aquatics, the 8 outlets is its limitation. That is all it can do.
In the neptune aquacontroller, you can buy a 4 outlet version of what you see on the reefkeeper (and can daisy chain numerous ones together) and ALSO use X10 modules, or use just X10 modules.
For your bulkier than normal plug woes, I present your solution:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=45342&item=6715826645&rd=1
I bought a set from the guy, love them!Reef55 said:For your bulkier than normal plug woes, I present your solution:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=45342&item=6715826645&rd=1
That's where I saw them. I couldn't remember and I was trying to explain them to my hubby to see if he could make some for me. Thanks.
As for my other question....so like most stuff in this hobby, I need to figure out which controllers are "upgradeable." Thanks, too.
-Linda
Chuck Spyropulos
Non-member
For problems with X10 you can buy filters and amplifiers to clean up and boost the X10 signal. You can also buy cheap testers to ensure the X10 signal is going where it needs to go and that has adequate signal to noise ratio.
Nikkoli110
Non-member
Wow thanks so much for that explanation!! I was wondering what all that stuff meant, but felt silly to ask. Now I'm going to research investing in one! Thanks alot
Now I'm going to research investing in one! Thanks alot 
seasno
A.K.A. Craig Snow
I am also using a Neptune Aquacontroller II. I have had it running for almost two years and I have been very satisfied with it. Great job on the explaination Reef55.
One more note on the Reefkeepers...in addition to the eight outlet limitation, the device is also limited to 1800 watts (or 15 amps) of total power draw.....not a huge deal for smaller tanks, but it is a limitation for bigger set ups. The Neptune controller with the x-10 devices doesn't have the same limitations because the power isn't running through the controller, it is running through the x- 10 device.
Craig
One more note on the Reefkeepers...in addition to the eight outlet limitation, the device is also limited to 1800 watts (or 15 amps) of total power draw.....not a huge deal for smaller tanks, but it is a limitation for bigger set ups. The Neptune controller with the x-10 devices doesn't have the same limitations because the power isn't running through the controller, it is running through the x- 10 device.
Craig
