MrX's 120G Build
- Thread starter MrX
- Start date
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OP
MrX
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I'd love to just go ahead and get two MP40s, but the wife would kill me. I can get four of the Evo 1400s for 1/5th the cost of the two MP40s. Just called the LFS in Worcester and I can get the EVO 1400 for $41/ea. (Beats Amazon by $11!) Decision made. 
Worst case I have an extra or two for mixing, frag, whatever.
Picked up a bunch of plumbing stuff today. Not enough to do everything and they didn't have a couple things, but at least I can start dry plumbing and get some ideas of what things will be like going through the wall.
Worst case I have an extra or two for mixing, frag, whatever.Picked up a bunch of plumbing stuff today. Not enough to do everything and they didn't have a couple things, but at least I can start dry plumbing and get some ideas of what things will be like going through the wall.
OP
OP
MrX
Non-member
Ok peeps. I picked up some spa flex in Hudson today and am starting to plumb things. I've got some questions:
1) The megaflow directions for installing the bulkheads just say to wet the rubber gasket. Is that enough or should I get some teflon gasket stuff?
2) The directions say not to glue the drain assembly. Should I glue the return pipe (the elbow at the top)? I'm assuming the pipes aren't glued into the bulkheads so you can remove things later if need be; i.e., they are just pushed in tightly.
3) What do I use to go from the bulkhead barbs to the spa flex? What I'm reading is that it's not a good idea to try and put the spa flex over the barbs. (Don't think I could do it anyways... it's damn tight!)
4) The picture below is my (dry) attempt at the return pipe line. I have 4 lines from the tank to the basement: 2x 3/4" return lines (only using one), and 2x 1" drain lines (using both). I need to figure out from the barb(s) to the spa flex:
Is the T- at the bottom going to cause any issues? I'm using the union under the T- just incase.
The bottom of the union would be connected right to one of the return lines (spa flex).
Any input on this part is appreciated. It will also answer the same questions for connecting the drain lines (spa flex) to the barbs there.
5) What type of cement should I use on the spa flex? I have the regular OATEY clear/purple primer pack. I'm reading that I should use WELD-ON or something else. Opinions?
6) On the drain lines I'll be installing BALL VALVES in the stand and down in the basement. Am I missing any other valves, check valves, etc.?
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Under the tank will be very clean: the T- for the two return lines, two drain lines, and whatever power cords for lights, etc. The four spa flex lines run from the tank/stand through the wall, into the basement, and just past the AC duct-work. From there I will switch over to standard pvc.
I'm open to direction for anything I might be missing. Like, should I make the hole in the wall/floor bigger? It fits the 4 lines now, but what else might I want to run down to the sump in the future?
Thanks all! (Getting excited for some water!)
1) The megaflow directions for installing the bulkheads just say to wet the rubber gasket. Is that enough or should I get some teflon gasket stuff?
2) The directions say not to glue the drain assembly. Should I glue the return pipe (the elbow at the top)? I'm assuming the pipes aren't glued into the bulkheads so you can remove things later if need be; i.e., they are just pushed in tightly.
3) What do I use to go from the bulkhead barbs to the spa flex? What I'm reading is that it's not a good idea to try and put the spa flex over the barbs. (Don't think I could do it anyways... it's damn tight!)
4) The picture below is my (dry) attempt at the return pipe line. I have 4 lines from the tank to the basement: 2x 3/4" return lines (only using one), and 2x 1" drain lines (using both). I need to figure out from the barb(s) to the spa flex:
Is the T- at the bottom going to cause any issues? I'm using the union under the T- just incase.
The bottom of the union would be connected right to one of the return lines (spa flex).
Any input on this part is appreciated. It will also answer the same questions for connecting the drain lines (spa flex) to the barbs there.
5) What type of cement should I use on the spa flex? I have the regular OATEY clear/purple primer pack. I'm reading that I should use WELD-ON or something else. Opinions?
6) On the drain lines I'll be installing BALL VALVES in the stand and down in the basement. Am I missing any other valves, check valves, etc.?
---
Under the tank will be very clean: the T- for the two return lines, two drain lines, and whatever power cords for lights, etc. The four spa flex lines run from the tank/stand through the wall, into the basement, and just past the AC duct-work. From there I will switch over to standard pvc.
I'm open to direction for anything I might be missing. Like, should I make the hole in the wall/floor bigger? It fits the 4 lines now, but what else might I want to run down to the sump in the future?
Thanks all! (Getting excited for some water!)
OP
OP
MrX
Non-member
Well, just went ahead and did the plumbing. Stopped at the LFS and got some tubing/barb adapters and got'er'dun. Not sure, but even with two windows open, I might be stoned right now.
Single return line from the basement T-d to the two returns, two drains to the basement with ball valves. Each "line" has a union:
Tank cleaned up, eggcrate in, plumbing done up here:
Later tonight I'm going to take a stab at setting up the sump baffles (buddy got me some glass cut to size) and then maybe work on getting that plumbed.
Tomorrow the meeting and a visit to the Tauton LFS.
Single return line from the basement T-d to the two returns, two drains to the basement with ball valves. Each "line" has a union:
Tank cleaned up, eggcrate in, plumbing done up here:
Later tonight I'm going to take a stab at setting up the sump baffles (buddy got me some glass cut to size) and then maybe work on getting that plumbed.
Tomorrow the meeting and a visit to the Tauton LFS.
Turbosnail
Non-member
+1 change it to a gfci. The plumbing looks good so far.
jt628
Non-member
not enough for a 120g reef imo... but everything looks great so far... keep up the good work... following along
Absolutely agree.. Mp40 is the way to go, the capability of mine amazes me daily
OP
OP
MrX
Non-member
Thanks for the feedback.
- GFCI is on my list.
- In regards to the powerheads I am going to go with two Sicce Voyager HP4000 Power Stream Pumps, and a couple light times to alternate the flow (this is based on the meeting and a quick talk with Jake).
- I am thinking of the Hydor Performance 705 Skimmer; should have plenty of "power" for my tank/sump
- No clue what to get for a return pump. Quick guesstimate I'd need something with at least 15' of head. It will be internal to the sump, don't feel like drilling just yet.
- I couldn't find a 3/4" check valve anywhere, nor could I find 3/4" or 1" Wyes
- Got the ball valve and some unions for the basement plumbing
Tomorrow I'll start putting together the sump. Then I'll have a better idea of where to run my plumbing.
- GFCI is on my list.
- In regards to the powerheads I am going to go with two Sicce Voyager HP4000 Power Stream Pumps, and a couple light times to alternate the flow (this is based on the meeting and a quick talk with Jake).
- I am thinking of the Hydor Performance 705 Skimmer; should have plenty of "power" for my tank/sump
- No clue what to get for a return pump. Quick guesstimate I'd need something with at least 15' of head. It will be internal to the sump, don't feel like drilling just yet.
- I couldn't find a 3/4" check valve anywhere, nor could I find 3/4" or 1" Wyes
- Got the ball valve and some unions for the basement plumbing
Tomorrow I'll start putting together the sump. Then I'll have a better idea of where to run my plumbing.
Skeeter7424
More corals than gallons
External will be a LOT more efficient. However a MAG 18, 24 or 36 will work. They're just loud...here is the head loss scale on those pumps...http://www.marinedepot.com/Danner_M...ter_Pumps-Danner_Mfg.-DN1111-FIWPSBUF-vi.html
Not sure if Mag 24 and 36 are still being made. The 18 will work depending on your head height, horizontal span distance and number of bends/turns in your plumbing, and piping diameter. it will use 50% or more power than an external . It adds up on a pump running 24/7.
Here's a link to calculate head loss;http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php/head-loss-calculator
Here's a link to calculate head loss;http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php/head-loss-calculator
mnavick
Well-Known Member
Reeflow, Pan World off the top of my head. There are some very efficient newer ones out there that have impressive head gains.
HD/Lowes (I beleive) do not sell these, very specific to the aquarium trade.
Look through the "Equipment For Sale" thread, always some for sale.
HD/Lowes (I beleive) do not sell these, very specific to the aquarium trade.
Look through the "Equipment For Sale" thread, always some for sale.
OP
OP
MrX
Non-member
Looks like the Reeflo HammerHead Hybrid will do everything I need and more. ~250w with the Barracuda insert and at 16ft it's 2400gph (assuming I am reading everything right). So at that levels I'd be looking at 16x turnover per hour (2400 / (120 + 30) = 16). Plus whatever I get in the tank with the two Sicce Voyagers.
