Treating a purple tang for ich

THE WOOKIE

Just Keep Swimming
So i know i should QT all new fish but the parents will not allow me to have a third tank. I need a way to safely treat my tank without using copper. The tang is eating well and i have been soaking its nori in garlic for a hour before i feed, i also ordered some selcon to add to the food. The tang police will be here any minute but any suggestions before this thread gets derailed into a argument about tangs in a 4' tank?
 
If your tang is eating and is acting normally then I'd just leave it be and let it fight the ich on its own, doing what you can to keep water parameters in good condition and minimizing stress. The two ways to treat for ich are hyposalinity or copper, both of which need to be done outside of the main tank. And there really isn't any point in putting the fish through the stress of being caught, quarantined, and treated unless you do so with all of your fish, leave the DT fallow for at 12 weeks, and then proactively treat every fish before you add it to your DT from here on out - otherwise you will always still have ich in your system that can rear its head at any time. As long as you keep the fish stress free and water parameters good, they will likely be able to fight it off on their own and you won't have a problem.

If your tang recovers and then the ich returns, you might want to consider rehoming as the tank size might be contributing to stress.... stress = lowered immunity = greater likelihood of disease. I only say this as something to think about in the future if he doesn't get and stay healthy, not trying to turn this into a tang discussion. Some tangs do just fine in a 4ft tank, and I think the purple tang can do fine in that size for a period of time, but as they get large then may need a larger home.

If the tang doesn't fight it on his own and stops eating or begins to hang at the bottom, hide in the rocks, breath heavy, then I'd strongly consider trying to catch him and move him into a treatment tank.

One other option - a guy I know on another forum removed all of his corals, rock, and inverts from his DT tank, and then did a hyposalinity treatment on his DT for 12 weeks, then moved the rocks, corals, and inverts back into the DT and plans to QT and treat future additions. If you absolutely have to go a treatment route and can't set up another tank, then you could move everything but the fish into a rubbermade tub for 12 weeks and treat with hyposalinity.
 
I've had a purple in a 4' tank for 3+ years. I got it medium size and its grown quite a bit.

I have the entire front of my tank empty and my rocks placed so there is plenty of swimming room in between and underneath.

Much like the yellow tang, they dart when they feel the need to and they need a place to dart to.

Without places to dart under and hide, I don't think the tang would do as well in a 4'.
 
If you feel you need to treat, look into Chloroquine Phosphate (4mg/gal I think). It is an anti-malarial drug that has been shown to be quite effective towards marine ich and less toxic to the fish. However, it is light sensitive and it can kill algae, coral, and some if not all inverts.
 
it also helps to keep your temperature on the hi side maybe 83 degrees (raising slowly) and salinity high 1.026 (raising slowly) ... if you can pick up a cleaner wrasse it will feed on the ick.
Good luck.
 
it also helps to keep your temperature on the hi side maybe 83 degrees (raising slowly) and salinity high 1.026 (raising slowly) ... if you can pick up a cleaner wrasse it will feed on the ick.
Good luck.

No offense intended, but none of these ^ things does much if anything to fight marine ick.
 
No offense intended, but none of these ^ things does much if anything to fight marine ick.

John is 100% correct. If you were going to change salinity, you would be doing the exact opposite, and going much, much lower. Cleaner wrasses do not eat ich, period. And they will end up carrying it themselves.
 
I have this stuff called Ick X which is reef safe and treats ick and fungus.

This stuff is very likely to not be reef safe and very likely to not work either.

The only two surefire ways to remove ich are either copper or hyposalinity. Scientific studies have shown everything else to have mixed results.

And ich does not go away, it is always there once it is in your tank. That does not mean it is in every tank.
 
^ Agreed. One note though, I have been hearing a lot about using the malaria drugs and it does sound very promising. No first hand exp, but there does seem to be a lot of buzz on RC about the stuff.

Personally, well, I have two new fish in QT getting a copper treatment.....
 
^ Agreed. One note though, I have been hearing a lot about using the malaria drugs and it does sound very promising. No first hand exp, but there does seem to be a lot of buzz on RC about the stuff.

Personally, well, I have two new fish in QT getting a copper treatment.....

John, do you treat all new fish with copper before putting in your DT?
 
I have learned a ton about this recently, as I played the Russian Roulette game for years and finally shot myself in the head a couple months ago.

These malaria drugs...are they quinine based or something else?

I prefer copper because it kills ich and marine velvet, which is actually much worse.
 
These malaria drugs...are they quinine based or something else?

I prefer copper because it kills ich and marine velvet, which is actually much worse.

IIRC they are quinine based, but I have yet to come across anything comprehensive that explains how to do the treatment properly or any data to support that the treatment(s) are truely effective. I'm with you, I'll stick to the tried and true until I see some really compelling evidence to trust whatever the new thing is. I just mentioned it because I have seen it mentioned a lot and it sounds very promising.
 
right now the entire right side and front of my tank is open for it to swim. It has many hiding spots in the rocks on the left side
 
IIRC they are quinine based, but I have yet to come across anything comprehensive that explains how to do the treatment properly or any data to support that the treatment(s) are truely effective. I'm with you, I'll stick to the tried and true until I see some really compelling evidence to trust whatever the new thing is. I just mentioned it because I have seen it mentioned a lot and it sounds very promising.

Unfortunately, there is a scientific study out there that showed mixed results. Furthermore, the quinine based drugs are nasty carcinogens and will also kill your fish if you treat too much. Not sure if the malaria drugs are quinine bases or not, but that's what I know of them.
 
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