Treating a purple tang for ich
- Thread starter THE WOOKIE
- Start date
Its just stupid because people always argue this. I will say this you will introduce ick into your aquarium at some point in your tanks life. What I was trying to say is I believe in a tank I believe all fish will get ick at some point. I'm talking about one cyst or more not a outbreak. Wild is a different story with water volume. Mchartier posted has great info on ick, but look at #8. I mean really, who the hell qt's sand. U take a shot at someone and basically call them a dumbass and then say not trying to be a jerk. My puffer is over 15 years old and had a bad outbreak of ick and managed it with a UV. If you ask me that is successful, but u can get the last world because I don't have the time nor patience to come on here and debate a topic that has successfully worked for me every single time I battled it. For me it worked and for many others as well as long as you have the right wattage and water flow, but it will never fail in this hobby that you will always get people that say don't waste your money it doesn't do anything.
No one called you a dumbass or any other names or insults.
Again, you are saying that all fish carry ick and it's inevitable to get in your tank. This is a myth, period.
True it is very likely that ick will be introduced if appropriate precautions are not taken, and true it's quite likely that most fish coming into the hobby are carrying it, but again, with appropriate precautions ick can be eradicated and kept out of our tanks. Saying otherwise IS perpetuating a myth that has been hanging around for way too long anyway.
acrofragger
Non-member
some people go to the extreme and qt everything rocks corals fish and they dont cross contaminate stuff ,and they pick fish appropriate for their aquarium size and thats why they dont have ich . tank parameters check out you feed appropriate foods and youl be good it really is possible not to get ich if the moneys right .u have no genny power fails ich you know alot of thing take in to play ....and there are some who take on all obstacles to not have ich in their systems ....
and i for one do not insult anyones inteligence on purpose
and i for one do not insult anyones inteligence on purpose
I personally don't quarantine or prophyllatically treat my fish. If I had a fish room and set up to do so I probably would and some day hopefully I will be able to. Until then, I do everything I can to keep my fish stress free: I don't overcrowd my tank, I keep my water parameters good, I choose fish that are compatible with each other and with the size of my tank, I feed nutritious food, etc. So far I've been very lucky and have never seen an instance of ich in my tank. I am certain I have the parasite and believe my fish are healthy and unstressed enough to repeatedly fight it off and not be overcome with it. Every time I add a fish I do wonder and worry if that will be the fish that puts everything over the top, so I try to be exceptionally careful with new additions and will not add a fish from a store where I see evidence of fish with active infestations. I think if you do your due diligence then you can likely keep your fish healthy long-term without pre-treating every fish before it goes into your DT. But its also a risk you take and have to understand that its probably pretty likely that at least one fish in your system is a carrier, and once one is, then likely they all are and are just not showing signs because they are fighting it off.
OP
OP
THE WOOKIE
Just Keep Swimming
If QTing at home is not a option for you i know a shop that QTs all new arrivals . I will be getting all my fish from them now so i know i am getting a healthy fish (PM me if you want the name, don't want to be flamed for advertising)
OP
OP
THE WOOKIE
Just Keep Swimming
Also, the tang is doing much better after eating mysis and nori soaked in selcon. Much better coloration and only a few white spots
Marine Ich can be devastating to the food industry. Since that is a multi-billion dollar market (as opposed to the relatively tiny saltwater pet industry), there is an abundance of SCIENTIFIC (read: not hobbyist conjecture) research on it. I highly suggest everyone read this if you want to know what the truth is, rather than believing whatever you want to. Some keys points:
1. Unbeknownst to me, more recent studies (in 2009) have shown that newly discovered strains of ich can stay in the tomont (treatment resistant) stage for 72 days! This was previously shown to be 3 to 60 days, which is where my previous suggestion for a fallow tank of 60 days came from. It wasn't just a guess. It looks like tanks need to be fallow for 72 days now and possibly slightly longer to ensure the parasite starves when it gets to the feeding stage!
2. Theronts must go through the UV sterilization unit in order to be exposed, so any theronts that are not exposed to UV radiation and remain in the tank or holding areas will be unaffected. Similarly, encysted tomonts within the tank or holding area will not be affected.
There is a lot of other great information for those of us that like to learn rather than make proclamations and believe whatever we want.
The bottom line is millions of dollars of research has been poured into the study of ich by the aquaculture industry, to be executed by research scientists and marine biologists that have dedicated their lives to the scientific study of this. I will take that over the word of any hobbyist regardless of how much experience they have.
At this point, I think people can judge who they want to believe in this thread. I am done.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa164
1. Unbeknownst to me, more recent studies (in 2009) have shown that newly discovered strains of ich can stay in the tomont (treatment resistant) stage for 72 days! This was previously shown to be 3 to 60 days, which is where my previous suggestion for a fallow tank of 60 days came from. It wasn't just a guess. It looks like tanks need to be fallow for 72 days now and possibly slightly longer to ensure the parasite starves when it gets to the feeding stage!
2. Theronts must go through the UV sterilization unit in order to be exposed, so any theronts that are not exposed to UV radiation and remain in the tank or holding areas will be unaffected. Similarly, encysted tomonts within the tank or holding area will not be affected.
There is a lot of other great information for those of us that like to learn rather than make proclamations and believe whatever we want.
The bottom line is millions of dollars of research has been poured into the study of ich by the aquaculture industry, to be executed by research scientists and marine biologists that have dedicated their lives to the scientific study of this. I will take that over the word of any hobbyist regardless of how much experience they have.
At this point, I think people can judge who they want to believe in this thread. I am done.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa164
mchartier
Non-member
17. My LFS quarantines their fishes for 2 weeks and I only buy them to be sure they are healthy and free of Cryptocaryon irritans. Have you been reading the above? First, 2 weeks is not long enough. Secondly most LFS share water among their fish system tanks so if any new arrivals happened, the clock is effectively reset back to zero.
And quarantining isn't the same as treating. And given that the parasite is already in your tank, quarantining and treating new fish won't help the problem as the new fish will just be infected when they are put in your tank. If you truly want an ich free tank you are going to have to treat all of your existing fish, leave your tank fallow for at least 8 weeks (though I think many sites suggest 12), and then also treat new arrivals.
